A Day and Night in Cusco (Before Travel Day to Ecuador)

On the outskirts of Cusco is Saqsaywaman, an Inca fortress that is an amazing example of unique Inca architecture. Each stone fits perfectly together, and the tallest is almost 9 meters high! These huge stones were fabricated 10 miles or more away and then rolled on logs pulled and pushed by teams of men. Not slaves.

The Incas “rotated” their teams of workers every two years. Of course the most grueling and least favorite job was rock rolling. But it was not your forever lot in life. After two years, your job could be farming. We’re talking 1438!

Pronunciation guide: Sexy Woman. I’m not kidding. Even the local guides call it that. Aren’t you glad you read the fine print?
This gives you perspective on how huge these stones are. Remember they had to be cut elsewhere, based on precise architectural drawings and then moved to this site. Look at the rows of “cubes” that formed the walls above foundation. No mortar. Later we learn about the joints carved for stability.
Imagine the stone on the right as a page in a book. When you “turn the page,” those grooves line up. But they are now like a tube. The Incas knew enough about earthquakes that they filled that area with melted bronze. Not because they didn’t have iron or steel yet. The wouldn’t have used it if they did. Bronze expands and contracts, making the walls less likely to fall. Again, 1400’s!
Great setting for photographing our Tauck tribe.

Cusco hotel is a former monastery behind the main square and cathedral. We will spend two nights here giving us a choice of how to spend our full day on Thursday, Oct. 10. John and I choose the half-day tour of “old Cusco,” and Donna and Martha choose the all-day tour of the highlands and their villages. (Donna is my guest blog photographer further down.)

This is my “blog spot” in the hotel and where I spent the second half of my day after the morning tour. And my signature drink: te negro frio. (Black iced tea.)

Fun (?) fact about that tree in the courtyard: It’s the oldest, lone cedar tree in Cusco. The Spanish cut down cedar forests to build altars and the choir loft inside the cathedral during the colonial period. Young cedars have been planted, but nothing close to the grandeur of this one.

Stay with me. The colonized Incas make their mark in a way that lives forever.

Cusco School of Painting. The influence of the Spanish brought about a new style of art, one that combined Inca traditional elements with European imagery and techniques. Imagery was the most successful tool used by the Spaniards in their quest to Christianize the Andean population. By teaching locals to paint Christian subjects, they were able to infuse Christianity into Andean traditions. The Inca artists copied existing works of religious art for the Cathedral, and they frequently inserted subtle and not-so-subtle elements from their Inca religion.

We are not allowed to take photos inside the cathedral, so I take notes on the most memorable example of this “hybrid” form of painting.

Behold, Marco Zapata’s interpretation of “The Last Supper.”

Yes, that’s a guinea pig with legs akimbo in the center of the table. But, wait, there’s more.

Notice that the Disciples are all looking at Jesus or toward heaven. Except for Judas, the figure in the lower right who seems to be peering at us. Sorta makes sense in that he betrays Jesus and looks shifty. Da Vinci’s depiction of Judas is not even close to Zapata’s.

Zapata inserted the face of Francisco Pizarro, known as the Spanish conqueror of the Inca Empire and founder of Lima as the face of Judas the traitor.

Our guide tells us that it took decades for any Colonials to notice it.

And now, photos from the Highlands Tour, brought to you by my Guest Blogger Donna Halker and her assistant, Martha Ross.

Families welcomed us to their homes, taught us how to make a stone-ground sauce that we enjoyed at lunch. The baby llama is a pet!
Martha models a handcrafted, soft, cuddly hat made of alpaca. (No alpacas were harmed in the process. They are sheared every two years.)

The next day is all-day travel to Guayaquil, Ecuador. We fly from Cusco to Lima and then transfer to the International Terminal to fly to Guayaquil, Ecuador. (I learn that there are no direct flights to the Galapagos; you must stay in Quito or Guayaquil before flying to the islands.

Guayaquil hotel is palatial. We leave Cusco at 6 am and arrive at our Ecuadorian lodging at 5 pm. Our room is crazy big. Below, John demonstrates The Flop, a non-yoga move invented by my granddaughter Bailey when she and I travelled by various sundry transportation vehicles to the Youth Leadership Conference at my National Speaker’s Association annual convention.

Photo credit: Donna Halker, with a nod to the rule of thirds.
Popcorn for breakfast!
Chocolate mousse ala Ecuador for after dinner dessert.

Manana en la Manana–Galapagos here we come!

2 Replies to “A Day and Night in Cusco (Before Travel Day to Ecuador)”

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Machu Picchu, Here We Come!

This is the day that all 29 of my new traveling Tauck friends are waiting for. Machu Picchu. I know from the get-go that we are not going to walk the 26-mile Inca Trail, which is how my daughter and son-in-law did it. (Day 2 is alleged to be the worst, where you’re hiking up and down to 12,000 feet.)

We are taking the train. And I am quietly disappointed that we have to make a stop first, at some ancient Inca ruins in a city called Ollantaytambo (oy-yahn-tie-tahm-bo). It’s a massive Inca fortress with large stone terraces on a hillside. 

Shame on me. Turns out it is oldest still-inhabited Inca city, and we learn so much about how and why and where the Incas built their cities. The perfect primer for appreciating Machu Picchu later in the day.

See that line down the middle of the street? It’s an irrigation channel still flowing from the original Inca aqueduct. 

And of course, we walk through the main Square where there is plenty of shopping to be had. Try as I might, I can’t convince Donna to buy this hat. 

And here we are posing before the steep steps and terraced “layers.” Our group is going climb to the fifth terrace and reconnoiter to learn more from our local guide. (Not to mention gulp water, pant, gasp and wait for our hearts to stop pounding out of our chests like a Looney Toon cartoon character.)

Did I mention steep?

How embarrassed am I to learn that Ollantaytambo is the most popular train station to embark on the Machu Picchu journey?

Very.

In fact, most porters that accompany the hikers live here. Mile marker 82 is the stop for the hikers. We are taking the train “all the way.” At least as far as the public bus station at the end of the line. Then we board a bus and wind our way to the entry point.

Spoiled rotten. We disembark the public bus at the entry gate to Machu Picchu. Entry to the park is limited and by appointment only, and our entry window is between 2 and 3 pm. We have 45 minutes to kill, so we check in to our rooms at, yes, The Sanctuary Lodge.

And then we are there. We hike a short while on switch backs, including a small section of the Inca trail, and after a steep climb up steps, we arrive at a terrace.

And there she is. Machu Picchu. Old Mountain in the Incan language of Quechua.

Those red lanyards and “badges” around our neck identify us as authorized to be on Circuit 2, which is the upper area of the Park. We are able to go lower, and we do, but the sun is setting and to go any lower requires a new reservation and appointment.

Llamas roam freely. In that we are there as dusk approaches, the llamas are ready to gather for the night. We are exploring the “residential” area when a herd of about 20 llamas drop in for Happy Hour.

See that anachronistic greenish blue contraption in the photo above? That’s where the llamas all nestle together for the night. Around it. Not in it.

That night, the conversations are filled with awe and wonder. Egad. That sounds so trite. But we all experienced something unique, and we shared it freely with people we’ve only known for a few days.

In a very different way, but yet still the same, I am reminded how Donna and I felt connected to the throngs of people who had completed the Camino de Santiago in Spain. It doesn’t matter who you are, how far you walked or where you started–you shared something deep inside that connects you no matter what.

That being said…the return train ride the next day is quiet. Until La Banda sets the tone in the “observation car.” What a way to celebrate an amazing accomplishment, no matter how you define it.

Turn up your volume.

If Machu Picchu has been at all on your radar screen or bucket list, we say, as we often do these days…

If not now, when?

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Catching Up on the Days In Between Lima and Machu Picchu

Lima to Cusco flight. We must have our bags packed and outside our hotel room at o’dark 4 am on Sunday, Oct. 6. The bus to the airport leaves at 5 o’yawn. Yes, there’s breakfast available, but, really, regardless of time zone, who needs to eat at 4 am?

We do, apparently. See food? Eat some.

Tauck took care of everything by way of delivering our luggage to a safe area for us to claim once we arrive at the wee hour of 6 am. We are handed our boarding passes by Zack the Tour Guide, and the bags are already tagged. We just hand them over with our passports and “poof” we go through security.

And wait. And wait. And change gates, but only once. Truly–I had imagined so much worse.

Arrive Cusco and get outa there pronto! Why? We left sea level at the crack of dawn and are now suddenly at 11,150 feet. Zack says we are going down to about 9,400 feet to the Tambo de Inca Resort and Spa located about midway down the Sacred Valley. If he told us once, he told us mucho veces:

  • Go slow. Your body has less oxygen and that means it has to work extra hard just to fuel your circulation.
  • Digestion slows down at high altitudes, so remember, “I know it’s Tauck, but you don’t have to eat all the food we put in front of you.”
  • Drink water, drink water, drink water.

And look what Tauck gave us to help with the latter!

Head for the hills and then Sacred Valley. We board our deluxe vans (Donna, John and I are still Llamas) and drive over the Andes peaks that surround Cusco. “Stretch your legs” break at the east end of the Sacred Valley. Sneak preview of where we’ll descending and staying the night. (Machu Picchu is at the west end of the Sacred Valley.)

From the patio of our “rest stop” (aka Bathroom Break).
John, Terri and Zack our Tauck Guide. Zack also guides Zion, Brice and Yellowstone Tauck tours.
Weather was nice enough for John to remove his pullover. Trust me, that doesn’t happen very often!
The Hand. No one wanted to walk to the palm for a photo op. Heck there’s a net under there.

We arrive at Hacienda Huayoccari for lunch at a private estate, surrounded by the family’s crops and stables of Peruvian Paso horses.

More causa, (this was even better than the other one), local greens, tomato and creamiest avocado ever. Yes, that’s a Pisco Sour in the upper left corner.

Peruvian Paso Horses. We learn that the Paso horse has a unique inherited four lateral gait (style of walking), which is the breed’s trademark. Translation? They don’t gallop, and that makes the Peruvian horse one of the most skilled and smoothest riding horses in the world.

And they can dance in time to music! Watch:

Tambo del Inka Resort and Spa has the best welcoming committee EVER. Baby alpacas. Donna and I dropped our purse/backpacks in our rooms and bolted back to the entrance lawn.

Next day will be Machu Picchu. Sort of. Eventually.

Stay tuned/subscribe!

5 Replies to “Catching Up on the Days In Between Lima and Machu Picchu”

  1. Were you able to ride on the Peruvian Paso horses? I’ve always wanted to ride on one, as you mentioned very smooth, comfortable ride.

    Oh, those baby alpacas don’t look real, but large fluffy stuffed animals. So cute, bring one back with you.😉

    Enjoy….

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Exploring Lima and Learning Fun Facts

We start our day on “The Big Bus” and head for the historical city center and Capitol. We will divide into two groups of 15 and 14 when we get there. Llamas and Alpacas. We are Llamas. Later we will ride in two different short buses because the streets are so narrow.

Fun facts about Lima and Peru. Richard, our local guide, regales us with a wealth of information:

  • Peru has 90 micro-climates with the coast, highlands, jungle and rainforest being the major climate zones.
  • Peru “domesticated” 3,500 varieties of potato! They are the world’s biggest exporter of asparagus and quinoa.
  • The biggest war in South America was over bird poop. It was between Bolivia, Chile and Peru over the Chincha Islands off the coast. Apparently that’s where large sea birds did their business in the 19th century. Guano deposits were 30 meters thick in some places. Guano was used in the production of fertilizers and explosives, which made it a profitable commodity. I can’t remember the details of the outcome because I am still trying not imagine 30 meters of bird poop.

Balconies. I’m picturing the Romeo, Romeo, where for art thou Romeo kind. Not in 16th and 17th century Peru. The “modernized ” one on the gold building has glass windows. Big issue for the aristocratic husbands and fathers of yesteryear. It’s one thing for the wife and daughters to look out the window. Quite another for them to be seen from the street.

The balcony on the green building is preserved from the early 1600s. (Spain conquered Peru in 1532.) Ladies can look out, and not be seen from below.

Oldest home in Lima. Built in 1535 it is the oldest colonial house of Lima. It is still occupied by the descendants of the founders, Aliaga family, who were beside Pizarro during the conquest of Peru. Lovely to tour.

A shame that my favorite picture is this one. My first thought is wow, what a beautiful courtyard. My second? This is why our HOA in the desert doesn’t allow ficus!

Lunch at a private “summer home” in Mirafloras. When you travel with Tauck, they find amazing venues to entertain you, including this private home, Alvarado Garcia Alvarado house. The granddaughter, Anna Marie, is our hostess and we dined in her courtyard with musical accompaniment.

Introducing the iconic drink of Peru: the Pisco Sour. Pisco is along the lines of a brandy, 43% alcohol, shaken vigorously with Pisco, lemon, simple syrup and egg white. This one, here is delicious. Think: margarita-like. (It’s the beverage directly under our waiter’s buttons.)

Causa. My daughter and son-in-law told us to definitely eat two things–causa and ceviche. Causa is a layered dish with potato, sometimes tuna, avocado and more potato. Who knows which of the 3,500 varieties of potatoes this one is, but it is delicious.

Ceviche. I am skeptical when my daughter tells me that the ceviche is unlike any in the US, and, in fact, it took them a long time before they ever order it State Side. Really? What’s to modify beyond lime, fish and maybe some minced peppers or onions?

Answer: everything. OMG. Unbelievably tender, flavorful, not too “limey” or strong. We all moan in unison at the first bite. Those large pieces are the ceviche. Note the size of the corn grown in Peru as well.

Spoiler alert. I write this three days after leaving Lima. Just so you know, we made it to Machu Picchu and I will post oh, so much more later.

Stay tuned/subscribe for more updates.

5 Replies to “Exploring Lima and Learning Fun Facts”

  1. Terri,
    What a fantastic trip and of course your story telling!! So my confirmation name was Rose os Lima and I absolutely loved the book Bel Canto/ Ann Patchet which takes place outside of Lima, Peru.
    Safe travels’
    Xo

  2. You would never know that what you are eating is ceviche as it looks nothing like what we eat in the USA. Terri please figure out how to make it. GOOD LUCK. You must be having “the time of your life”. Tell Donna hello for me as she is my “adopted” daughter. Love you all.

    PS Charity has done miracles for me. All bandages are off and walking good.

    Love. Mom

  3. What an interesting trip you’re on Terri. I’m learning so much about Peru along with you…beautiful pictures….thanks for including me‼️

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Bucket List Trip to Machu Picchu and Galapagos (Day 1.5)

LAX-Houston-Lima Oct. 4

Uneventful. That’s how we like our travel to the airport and flying to our destination. And that’s what we got. The most exciting part was Mr. Rocking Red Shoes on the flight from LAX to Houston.

Airplane lighting doesn’t do justice to the spiffy, sparkly bling on his Bose headphones. Zoom in for better effect. Mr. Rocking Red Shoe Guy played the air guitar–and I mean really really played the imaginary left hand chords–as well as air piano and drums. The. Whole. Time.

The usual suspects. John and I are traveling with Donna on a Tauck tour that will takes us from Lima, Peru to Cusco to Machu Picchu, back to Cusco and then to Ecuador and a 7-day small ship cruise of the Galapagos Islands.

Donna and I start our travel the way we always do. Sparkling!

Luxury in Lima. We arrive at our hotel around 10 pm Friday night. Check in. A little more sparkling and posing out front before bedtime.

Saturday we explore the area. Lima is the Capital of Peru, on the coast of the Pacific Ocean. We learn that the sprawling city is made up of 43 districts (think: municipalities) each with their own Mayor, police and “city hall.” We are in San Isidro in south Lima, and walk to Miraflores to check out the cliffs above the beach.

A reunion with Martha! When Donna and I finished our first Camino de Santiago (Portuguese Coastal Route ~200 miles starting in Porto), John and our friend Don met us in Santiago and then we four flew to Budapest for our first Tauck tour. A river cruise to Prague on the Danube. And that’s where we met Martha, who lives in Santa Monica. We’ve remained friends visiting each other up and down Pacific Coast Highway for seven years.

And now we get to travel together again! Here we are along the coastal trail above the sea.

John forgot to pack a baseball hat, but look at the dapper substitute he bought at the Mercado!

Sunday (mañana) Zach, our Tauck guide, will lead our group to the Main Square, local ruins, Barranco district and then the Larco Herrera Museum and a private dinner at Cafe del Museo.

Buenos noches.

7 Replies to “Bucket List Trip to Machu Picchu and Galapagos (Day 1.5)”

  1. Yay. Another Blah Blog! Have fun. We arrived Munich yesterday on our way to India in a few days…. Dueling blogs!

  2. Love those red shoes, with matching socks!

    John looks great in his new hat👍 good choice.

    Have a fabulous trip, I know you will…

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The Rain in Spain–My “Silver Medal” Camino Story Recorded at TheMoth.org Story Slam

“Remember that time on the Camino when . . .?”

Donna and I start many conversations this way now.

When I learned that “Rain” was the theme for TheMoth.org’s Los Angeles open mike StorySLAM event, Donna and I bought tickets. Once there, I put my name in the hat and was one of 10 lucky storytellers selected to go on stage and tell a 5 minute story (plus a 1 minute grace period) based on that theme.

The Moth stories must be true, told live, without notes. Three teams of three audience members judge the storyteller’s telling of the tale, based on the teller’s sticking to the five-minute time frame, sticking to the theme and having a story that has a conflict and a resolution. Winners of StorySLAMs advance to a GrandSLAM event, with a different theme and more time to tell their stories. I came in second by a fraction of a percentage point.

No big deal. Not why I was there.

You know from reading my blahg how much I like to write about the Camino de Santiago. The Moth gave me a chance to talk about it. From behind a microphone! (Deja vous all over again from my years of professional speaking.)

I’d forgotten how rewarding it is to make people laugh. Not to mention make Donna choke up just a tad at the memory.

Click the image of The Moth logo to watch the 6 minute video.

Buen Camino!

P.S. If you love listening to or telling stories, I recommend The Moth Radio Hour Podcast, available wherever you listen to podcasts.



10 Replies to “The Rain in Spain–My “Silver Medal” Camino Story Recorded at TheMoth.org Story Slam”

  1. Great story telling Terri, you have a natural talent of communicating a somewhat forgotten area, great story telling time.

  2. You are amazing!! And talented!! Your Camino adventures just continue. Took courage to get up there. And to pull it all together so quickly. But then you have always been adventurous for the 55 years I’ve known you ❤️

  3. Holy cow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    That was brilliant. I love the math you were amazing. You really should’ve been an actress you could’ve been the next Meryl Streep. The story was wonderful humorous filled with. Hope you just go around, followed by God winks that’s all.
    Thank you for letting me know about your performance at the moth I’m gonna brag about you to the end of Time. My brilliant, brilliant, talented friend.

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Be Still My Book Reading Heart

Marcia is sitting across the card table from me as we play canasta last Fall. She mentions ever so off-handedly that she read a great “feel good” book over the summer.

“It’s called The Guncle. It’s funny and takes place here in Palm Springs.”

“The WHAT?” I ask, as I organize my cards.

The Guncle. Stands for Gay Uncle. Or GUP—Gay Uncle Patrick. He ends up taking care of his young niece and nephew while their dad is in rehab in Rancho Mirage. Really funny and sweet,” she says as she discards a four of spades into the plastic tray.

Always looking for a good book to listen to, especially one both husband John and I can listen to together on road trips, I buy the Audible version of The Guncle. We listen to it on our drive to and from Colorado for Christmas.

Fast forward to February.

I suggest The Guncle to the two PGA West book clubs I belong to and volunteer to host at my house. So long as we do a first-ever combined meeting of the book reading minds, I add. Which gets me thinking. . .the author, Steven Rowley, lives in Palm Springs. Wouldn’t it be great if I could get him to come speak to us?

Squeals of “Oh yes!” from the Popcorn Book Club ladies make me realize I had said it aloud. I have one month to make it happen.

Or maybe not.

I visit his website, StevenRowley.com and see that all the contact information is via publicists. Three different publicists, one for each of his three novels. I learn movie rights are sold for each of them.

“Dang. This guy is big time,” I mutter to my husband and then tell him all I’ve learned.

“Good luck. You’ll never get him to come a little book club meeting,” John says.

I raise my eyes above my laptop screen, give him The Glare, and then do my best Barney Stinson imitation and shout, “Challenge accepted!” (Google it, if you didn’t watch Neil Patrick Harris in How I Met Your Mother.)

Patrick, aka GUP in the book, doesn’t do his own “sosh,” aka social media. Maybe Steven Rowley does?

LinkedIn lists 10 Steven Rowleys. None are authors. On Facebook I find the author Rowley (and a bus driver Rowley). I scroll and scroll the author’s page and agree with the eleventy-million fans who are commenting on his books. But I don’t want to approach him through a fan page.

Instagram for the win.

I scroll and scroll Insta (that’s what the cool kids call it, ya’ know). I discover a photo of Steven with ladies from the Carlsbad Book Club. Hope springs eternal.

Instagram? Hmmm. I think I have an account. Egad. Ancient history.

I better post a few pictures from this decade. Two cute pictures of Rusty, my labradoodle, because Steven is a dog lover, too. And one of the view from brunch at Ernie’s Bar and Grill, because “Brunch is awesome.” (Guncle Rule #1.)

I’m ready. I post a comment to his post about The Best Bookstore in Palm Springs. (That’s its real name.) I tell him that The Guncle is a fan favorite in PGA West and that it’s the March selection for two, count ‘em, TWO, book clubs here.

“I’m honored,” he replies a few days later.

“He replied! He replied!” I holler as I happy-dance around our island kitchen counter, taunting my husband. “He replied!”

“Is he coming to book club?” John asks skeptically.

“I haven’t asked yet. I only posted a comment. And he REPLIED!”

I not-so-calmly wait until the next morning to craft the official “ask” and share my email address via Insta. (Instagram, remember?) He replies again!

Holy cow, this might just happen. I’m trying not to hyperventilate.

I provide details of date, time, location, and format. Format being the Popcorn Book Club model in which the hostess (me) provides wine, water and popcorn. Period. After all, I add to my message, some of us consider popcorn a meal.

“I have you on my calendar,” he confirms, signing it “Team Popcorn Is a Meal.”

The RSVPs start pouring in.

On the day of the event, I haul every piece of moveable furniture I own into the living/dining room area, saving the best upholstered “throne-like” chair for Steven. Yes, I tell a couple of ladies, bring a few folding chairs, just in case more than 22 people show up.

And show up they do. Good thing I created a make-shift reserved parking sign so that Steven wouldn’t have to walk too far.

Despite being a Doubting John as to whether I could persuade Steven to come, I allow my husband to attend book club–as bartender. Which means asking what color of wine a woman wants and then pouring it. (Meetings sans authors are pretty much DIY when it comes to beverage pouring.)

As the ladies are scooping popcorn into their red and white striped boxes and claiming their seats, I am focused on the front door. I peek past the crowd, through the courtyard gate. Every 17 seconds or so. Why am I so nervous?

I confide to a few gals that my hands are shaking. Me, the Blah Blah Blah lady who hasn’t met a microphone she doesn’t love to use. This feels more like I’m an excited teenager waiting for my prom date to arrive.

Arrive Steven does. To fanfare, applause and caftans.

Now for the best part.

To get the dialogue started, I ask the “audience” to share a memorable moment from the book. Something that sticks with them, perhaps long after having read the book. A laugh, a tear, a gasp. One by one we share snippets of scenes or dialogue. (Don’t worry, no spoilers here.)

And Steven punctuates the conversation first with thanks, and then with some “behind the curtain” comments as to how and why he crafted something a certain way.  His thank you is not about accepting the adulation of his readers. Well, a little bit, maybe. He also shared that it means a lot to a writer to hear what sticks.

“Being a writer is actually quite solitary work. With stand-up comedy, you know immediately when a joke lands. With a book, I can crack myself up writing a scene, but how do I know if anyone else thinks it’s funny? he says.

I ask about Grant, Patrick’s 5-year-old nephew.

“Why did you give him a lisp?” I think I know the answer—because it’s endearing, adds to the little guy’s vulnerability and sets up some humor, too. I’m right on all accounts.

But wait, there’s more “behind the curtain” to it than that.

“I knew there’d be a lot of dialogue, and I wanted a way to distinguish the kids without having to keep writing ‘he said, she said,’ over and over,” Steven explained.

Brilliant! I had not thought of that.

The bartender asks how much of the story is based on Steven’s own life experiences and family.

Steven volunteers that yes, he has nieces and nephews. Yes, he has a sister, but she’s not as mean as Clara, the sister in the book. Yes, he lost a very dear college friend to breast cancer. (Again, not a spoiler.)

“What about Patrick, the Guncle himself?” a caftaned fan asks. “How much of you, Steven, is there in Patrick?”

“Certainly some, but Patrick is richer, more famous and more handsome than me,” he teased.

Wrong on the latter, many ladies voice. And once the movie is made, wrong on the former as well.

“Someday, we’ll watch you on the red carpet and sigh, ‘We knew him when. . . .’” I predict.

The late afternoon flies by.

We hear more about the recording of the Audible version of The Guncle. Steven doesn’t just read the book, I say. He performs it, creating theater of the mind like no other, I gush, as Audible alumni ladies nod their agreement.

We know we can’t keep him much longer, so we assemble for a group photo with caftan-clad club members in the front row. Individual book signing and photos and farewells follow.

As Steven leaves, I hand him a box of popcorn for the road, hoping it truly isn’t his evening meal. When I see him drive away from the curb, and I know he can’t see me standing in the entry way, I close the door and turn my back to lean on it.

Challenge complete! And oh, so much better than going to prom.

7 Replies to “Be Still My Book Reading Heart”

  1. That’s my girl!! Never will turn down a challenge , He looks like a very out going individual. I will have to check out his book. I still get updates from J, A. Jance at least twice a year. She lets her fans know when she has a new book coming out and all ways sends a “Christmas News Letter”.

    You did a great job as usual.

    Mom

  2. You are amazing!! I can’t believe John doubted that you could make this happen-he’s known you 45+ years!! What an awesome experience! You go girl!!! 😊👍

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A Favor to Ask and A Story to Tell

The Favor First.

If you’ve been keeping up with my blog posts as Donna and I walked the 500 miles of the Camino de Santiago, you may have noticed that my Mom, Patricia (Pat) Stoner, commented every time. She was often the first to do so!

Many of you have shared with me how much you enjoyed reading her comments.

Well, TODAY, Thursday, Sept. 29 is her 90th (yes, ninetieth) birthday.

She doesn’t do Facebook, and I would just love it if you could enter a comment here,  wishing her, “Happy Birthday, Pat” today. I’ll make sure she sees them!

The Story I’ve Been Meaning to Tell

Here’s my mom a year ago at my daughter’s wedding.

Continue reading “A Favor to Ask and A Story to Tell”

The Story of My Camino Shells

The symbol of the Camino is the scallop shell. It is rare to see someone walking without a big one hanging outside the backpack. Donna and I bought ours Day 2 of our first Camino, the Portuguese Coastal Route in Spring of 2017. We carried them again on the 300 miles of the French Way from Burgos in 2019.

Donna framed hers and hung it on her living room wall, because, well, who’d have thought we’d be walking the Camino a third time? Let alone the whole 500 miles. She said she’s “unframing,” bringing it out of retirement one more time.

Last week we did a 12K walk (RT) from my house in Long Beach to Seal Beach to buy 40 shells each from the California Shell Shop on Main Street.

Here are my 40 shells.

 

And here’s the plan for them:
• The “theme” of our Camino is gratitude.
• On the inside of each shell, I will write the name of something or someone I am grateful for. So will Donna, independently, on her shells.
• Every morning we each pull a shell from our respective collections and carry that shell until we find a place to leave it. Sometimes there’s a connection. Like last time, when I left Laurie Guest’s shell in a corn field. (Read her bio, and you’ll get it.) Sometimes there’s no connection; it just looks like a nice place for a shell.

I also plan on leaving a few shells blank…for the Camino angel(s) I’m sure to meet along The Way.

And the yellow one in the middle? That one’s for me. I don’t know where I’ll leave it, but I’ll know it when I get there.

Stay tuned!
(Which is another way of saying, subscribe up there on the Home page. Whenever I post, you’ll get an email telling you I did.)

Getting To the Starting Point: LAX-Biarritz-St. Jean Pied de Port

Donna and I say adios to LAX, Camino here we come! Yes, it was a Spanish sparkling wine.

We left LAX at 1:15 p.m. Friday, Aug. 12, arrived Paris at 9:30 a.m. and then connected to a flight to Biarritz. We got to Biarritz hotel around 4 p.m. Saturday and pinkie swore that we would not go to bed until dark.

Donna wants to get a picture of each “hotel” we stay in. The beds and the view from the window. These are at the Hotel Windsor in Biarritz. Our first night’s stay.

 

Donna’s “view from our window” in Biarritz.

 

Terri’s “view from the window” picture, taken from inside the hotel room instead of hanging precariously out the 6th floor window like Donna did.

 

Selfie looking back on the beach. Our hotel was one of the beige buildings on the left end of what is pictured in the middle.

We found a restaurant around the corner from our hotel that served an  “early” dinner at 7:30 p.m. We were tucked in by 10 p.m. and slept until 8:30 a.m. Sunday.

We had time to kill until our 2 p.m. transfer by car to St. Jean Pied de Port, so we took off walking in the other direction from the day before, headed for the lighthouse.

The beach at Biarritz Sunday morning.

 

After staying up as late as we could Saturday night, we slept in Sunday and took about a 5K walk to the lighthouse at the north end of the beach. This is looking back from whence we walked.

 

The lighthouse in Biarritz, built in 1834. It’s 44 meters (~144 ft) high. The math is important. Read the post!

We could have walked to the top of the lighthouse, but a) it was an hour’s wait, and b) the next day we would be climbing 3,000 feet into (and over?) the Pyrenees. Or, for perspective, like climbing that lighthouse 20 times.

We had a cappuccino in a cafe and then waited for our ride to St. Jean. At 1:59 p.m. a driver hops out and yells, “Taxi!”

Right on time! Awesome. He hoists our two suitcases into the trunk, jumps back in and says cheerfully, “To the beach! Yes?”

Two big suitcases and we’re going to the beach, he’s making a joke. “Ha ha. St. Jean Pied de Port,” I corrected.

”The Port?” He clarified as he pulled away.

“NO, no, CaminoWays, St. John Pied de Port!”

”Airport?”

“No, we are going to St. Jean Pied de Port. To walk the Camino.”

”OK, St. Jean Pied de Port.” He enters something into his phone and Donna and I realize we have the wrong cab.

I said, “We already paid. CaminoWays paid. Wrong cab. Wrong cab. Go back.”

I don’t speak French, but I could tell that the words he spoke were probably not in the Duolingo curriculum.

As he made an illegal u-turn and double parked outside our hotel lobby, we saw a very confused looking couple talking to man with van. They were obviously packed for a day on the beach.

“Wrong cab, wrong cab!”

Our driver was sweet and friendly. Thankfully, he spoke Spanish, which seemed so familiar to me. It was a one-hour drive to St. Jean, and the scenery was stunning. Winding roads through tall mountains spotted with farms.

St. Jean Pied de Port

We’ll cross this river in the morning and the adventure begins! We walked around all afternoon hunting for the beginning of the Camino.

Found it! And then we reorganized every thing into what goes in our day packs (rain gear, first aid kit, Pilgrim’s Passport and 2 liters of water).

And we had two full-sized beds in this room on which to spread it all out.

We are ready. Buen Camino!

 

 

We Made It. ‘Nuf Said.

Before and After

We left St. Jean Pied de Port at 8:15 am. The red, white and green flags were strewn across the old town’s cobblestone streets to celebrate a Basque festival. We enjoyed marching bands during the day before and tried not to listen to the bands that played two-hour sets at 9 pm, midnight, and 2 a.m.

After

25K, nine hours and change later, we arrived at Roncevalles. The only place to stop for food or rest or beverage was at the 7K mark. We weren’t really hungry at that point but we split a “tortilla” to load some carbs.

(Tortilla in Spain is essentially potato and egg “quiche,” gluten free for yours truly.)

Our legs were wobbly and at the very end I said, “I feel like my legs are boiled spaghetti and I’m trying to control them with my brain alone. No tongs.”

In Between Time

The Camino through the Pyrenees is an uphill effort we’d never experienced before. Thankfully, the weather was perfect. We never had to put on rain gear, for one. And even when climbing above the tree line we enjoyed a light breeze. Sometimes we gave out-loud thanks for both shade and a breeze in the same stretch.

From whence we came is pictured above. Zoom in and you’ll see a road far below where I was standing to take this picture. Way down yonder is St. Jean terrain.

Bucolic is the word Donna and I used to describe the trek through and over the Pyrenees. At first we thought those beige things were rocks. Nope. Sheep.

Cattle roamed free and did not mind us at all. They wore huge cow bells, but we quickly learned that the free range herd of horses (not pictured on either of our cell phones) also wore bells. And so did the sheep.

This is the perfect setting. Shade. Flat-ish. Canopy of trees. Unfortunately, the same setting turned ugly when we took an “alternate route” that went straight downhill for almost 4K. No pictures to share because it was all we could do to not tumble down the trail.

At Last.

We had to wait in line to check in to our hotel room, and I was able to chat with the other travelers in Spanish. I asked questions of the receptionist in Spanish and translated the answers to English for Donna. Strangely comforting is the best I can describe the feeling or relief to be in Spain, where I have more words than in France.

 

We have a third floor room loft room at Hotel Roncevalles. Two full sized beds pushed together is luxurious to us.

View from one of the windows actually doubles as air conditioning. Thankfully it will be a cool, crisp night.

Before the projected rain pours down manana en la manana.

Buenas noches.

We Expected Yesterday to Be the Hardest. Surprise!

Having survived Day 1, we looked forward to Day 2 being shorter by 4K. The weather report said 88% chance of rain throughout the route, so we thought we were so smart to anticipate that it might still be a long day due rain.

Knowing we’d be donning rain gear a good portion of the day, we packed it at the top of our day packs, ready for prompt retrieval. We got an early start (for us, anyway) around 8 a.m.  Before we got out of the hotel parking lot, quarter-sized rain drops splatted at our feet.

“What’s the rule?” We asked simultaneously. (See previous post called ABC’s of Camino under R for Rain.)

The Rule (learned the hard way): If it starts to rain, you put on rain pants AND your rain coat. And we did.

Yes, matching raincoats. (Pants not pictured, but trust me, they’re on.)

The walk out of town was through a beautiful forest, so we convinced ourselves that it must be a light rain, because the trees were blocking it from hitting us.

Donna in full rain gear, including backpack cover.

Fast forward about 5K and we realize that we must be taking one for the entire Camino team in the area because it still had not rained. Figures, we put on the rain gear and it doesn’t rain. We were too superstitious to take it off until after lunch, but by then the sun was shining.

Another forest with blessed shade. And a yellow arrow on the tree assuring us we were on the right pat.

We knew we had two mountain passes to climb that day, but we still had time to enjoy the scenery. And this time, get pictures of the horses.

 

 

What goes up must come down.

The uphill effort had our hearts beating hard, our lungs at full speed and capacity, as well as our leg muscles saying “hello again.”

It was the last 4K that killed us. Already tired and sore from the day before, we had to navigate a steep, rocky, craggy and often slippery trek down hill 1000 feet.

How anyone could complete that segment without poles is beyond me. We stopped talking. We stopped smiling. We were miserable, and it was all either of us could do except walk more like a four-legged creature than the humans we are.

Plant a pole, lean into it with your weight and then raise a foot and put it down oh, so carefully. Plant the opposite pole on your left side, put your weight into it, raise your other foot and carefully put it down.

Rinse and repeat umpteen times.

Going uphill is hard because you can hardly breathe and plod along slowly. Downhill is worse. Especially at the end of 7 hour day. Donna said it perfectly, “Everything below my butt hurts.”

We dragged our lower limbs into the town of Zubiri and had to spend a great deal of time in attitude adjustment. The shower helped. “Legs up the wall” was first. Then stretching as best we could.

Again, too tired and sore and exhausted to take a lot of pictures. But here’s the  room for the night, and the view:

 

Manana is Pamplona!

Pamplona. A Great Day. Slow WiFi.

So much to tell, so little bandwidth to do so.

Day 3 was walking into Pamplona. Yes! THAT Pamplona ala the running of the bulls. We just missed them a month ago. Walking into a metropolis is not the most fun, so by the time we arrived at our lodging, we were a bit snarly ourselves.

A Pilgrim’s meal was not included that night, so we had to hunt and gather at nearby tapas bars. Poor us, right? More on that later, maybe.

Day 4 Out of Pamplona

We were excited for this day because it includes a climb up Alto del Perdon, the Hill of Forgiveness.  At the top is a sculpture depicting a number of Pilgrims either on foot or on horseback as they make their way along the Camino to Santiago.

Look closely and you might see two people photo bombing everyone else’s picture.

Problem is, we took all sorts of amazing photos before and after the one above, but the WiFi at our lodging “down the mountain” in Puente de Reina has the

s l o w e s t

bandwidth EVER. The above is the only photo I could upload all night.

So, trust that we are safe, sound and strong at Day 4. We’ll get to the next post when we can.

Manana en la manana,

Terri and Donna

Locked In, Lost and Lagging

The day started beautifully, from a little rural cottage in which we were the only Pilgrims. (Others were couples and families on vacation.)

Thankfully, the hostess said she would see that our luggage was taken down the stairs for the transport company to retrieve in the lobby.

In the charming city of Viana, we were treated to a walk down Calle Mayor (think Main Street in any Spanish town) right as 12:00 mass was letting out of the massive stone church.

Like salmon swimming upstream, we went into the church for a look around. The place emptied out pretty quickly, and I saw the priest exit through what looked like a private door to the left, let’s call it 9:00 on an old school clock. We were behind the altar (at 12:00 if you’re still with me), went past where he exited, and poof, the lights went out.

”I think we better head for the exit or we’re going to get locked in here!”

As we strolled to the exit, out comes the priest in his casual attire and says in Spanish, “I am happy you are here, but you are lucky that I am here, too.”

He had already locked the exits and escorted us to one he unlocked for us and wished us a Buen Camino.

The Calle Mayor was filled with people having lunch, beer, wine, bocadillos (snacks). Here’s what it looked like as a selfie from the end of the street.

Then, all we did was turn around and here’s a 900-year-old building behind us.

We then headed out of town. 

And missed a turn.

We had walked at least 2K on a paved road through a vineyard (in the heat, sans shade) and were starting to be concerned. We hadn’t seen a single other Camino walker or biker in an hour. Finally a car approached us and I flagged him down. 

I told him in Spanish that I thought we might be lost, and he said in Spanish, “Yes you are. This is not the official Camino.” 

He (and his son in the backseat who spoke broken English) redirected us from whence we came. 

As he pulled away, wishing us Buen Camino, I muttered to Donna, “I would have jumped in the backseat if offered.”

Donna said, “I would have stood on the back bumper and hung on for dear life.”

All in all, we added about 5K to the day and an extra 90 minutes in the heat. I ran out of water in my “camelback” with 4K left to walk through the city of Logrono, and there, like a little Camino miracle, appeared a water fountain in a park.

We arrived after 5 p.m., but we arrived. Here is the happy photo we took long before being almost locked in at the church and then a little bit lost after that.

 

Captions Only to Catch Up (A Little)

We are doing about 22K a day and just finished the first one in full sun. Scenery is spectacular, with the vineyards starting to border our trail.

Friday night is in Estella, a picturesque, bustling town with OLD and new butting up against each other. Again, however, the WiFi is weak.

I don’t know how many pictures I can upload, so the caption will have to tell the story. And they are not in chronological order. 

A natural arch of shade is something to celebrate!

 

See that town in the distance? Kind of like walking to the Emerald City. Except it’s not green. And the road is not yellow or brick. But other than that, the same.

 

Donna gets photo credit for the bridge crossing this morning out of Puente de Reina.
Last night’s room at the inn.

 

Donna looking out the window with a view.

 

Legs Up the Wall pose from Pamplona. It’s the first thing we do when we get to the room after removing our hiking shoes. (Today, Friday, however, we were so sweaty and hot that the photo would have been sans pants. Or shirts.)

 

View from our window today, Friday, in Estella.

 

And this is the ultra modern room from which we look at the old church tower.

 

Hasta la vista amigos! Tomorrow will be another HOT day. Never underestimate the power of even a breath of a breeze. We are grateful, indeed.

A Wonderful Walk in So Many Ways

Today, Saturday, Aug. 20 was Day 6 of walking, and we’ve covered more than 100K to date. Today’s “mileage” was 22K to our lodging. We knew it would be a tough one because of anticipated heat (93 degrees at the end of the trail), and the last “services” were at 9.5K.

That means no water fountains, no towns, no nada for four hours (or more?). And, did I mention the heat?  In preparation, we decided to take the risk of leaving our rain coats, rain pants and backpack covers in the suitcase to make our backpacks lighter.

We filled our “camelback” water pouches to the brim, 2 liters.

Water or Wine?

Look what we found at the Monastery at 3K mark—la Fuente de Vino. The fountain of wine. One tap is water, one is wine.  We didn’t bring cups, so we had to improvise.

Until two Italian bicyclists showed up and offered a tin cup.

Yes, it was bueno. Donna and I each took a sip and called it Camino communion.

(It has taken me more than two hours to create the above post. It’s getting close to bedtime, so I’m going to try and post the picture (I have a great video that I may put on Facebook) that captures the dramatic, albeit somewhat desolate scenery.

And we realized how precious our Camelback water reservoirs were when we stepped to the side of trail for a passing car.

“It’s the police!” I said. “What in the world are they doing out here?”

The car with two uniformed officers stopped beside us, rolled down the window and asked, “Esta bein? You OK?”

I answered yes in Spanish and the officer driving knew enough English to communicate that they were patrolling the Camino with the sole purpose of helping peregrinos (Pilgrims walking the Camino). He asked if we had enough water, we said we did by wiggling the spigot of our water bladders.

Then he told us that there are no water fountains in Los Arcos, which was our destination. And nothing between us and Los Arcos.

OK, we’re OK.

“If you need help, you call 062,” he said as he pointed to the outside of the driver’s side of the vehicle. “We here for peregrinos.”

When we truly looked at the vehicle and read what was on the side, we got so excited and touched by the focus of these men and their mission.

”Can we take a picture?” I asked in Spanish.

“Si, si,” he said, and took my phone from me.

And then Donna said, “We want YOU in the picture!”

Kojak of the Camino!

We ended the day in good spirits. That’s a win, trust me. The last 2 or 3K is when the mental game comes into play. Horse-to-Barn mode is not the best, but Grumpy Town is worse. Today was “Hot and Bothered, but Proud and Powerful.”

 

 

 

 

 

The People We Meet

Here’s our little code.

You chat with someone along the way, and you don’t learn their name, so you give them a label. So there’s Miami Man. Or Red Shirt Guy. New Zealand Gals. If we could keep up with the Boys in the Band, we would have. But they are three student-age looking guys carrying fully loaded backpacks and each one has what looks like a violin case strapped on, too.

Once you encounter someone again, maybe then you chat enough to ask the person’s name. Three years ago we forgot so many names that we promised each other that we would take pictures and capture names, too, this time around.

We said goodby to Bernard and Mrs. Bernard from France in Los Arcos. They were “only” walking as far as Logrono because the had to bet home in time for their daughter’s wedding.

Monday Night Made Merrier.

Monday night our lodging did not have a kitchen for serving dinner, so we had a voucher to a nearby place. Donna and I sat down early, which in Spain means 7:45 p.m.

A few more tables started to fill and we heard English being spoken at each one. New Zealand Gals were at one table (Sue and Michelle) and Aussie Couple were at another (Mark and Brooke). By the end of the evening we asked Man Bun the waiter to take our picture.

(L to R): Brooke and Mark (Melbourne), Sue (NZ), Donna, Me, Michelle (NZ).

Our room Monday night also got a nickname the moment we opened the door. Red Room. Not R E D R U M, I clarified to Donna (and for the benefit of any Stephen King fans.)

How hot was it Monday?

Very. Heat rash is an issue we hadn’t anticipated, but one trip to the Farmacia and we had relief cream.

Tuesday Morning Delight. 

Turns out Sue and Michelle were staying our hotel. We saw them at breakfast and the introduced us to Mark and Margaret (M & M) from New South Wales. 

We know that Sue and Michelle are staying in the same town we are Tuesday night, so we are hoping we see them again and perhaps can eat together. 

As for Tuesday’s walk, I took a couple of videos to show the contrast. I’ll do a separate post and see if I can get them to upload. If not, I may have to resort to Facebook. (Sorry, Mom. I’ll email them directly to you if that happens.)

 

L O N G E S T Day, No Time to Post

Surprise!
Your Lodging is 6K Past Where You Thought Your Day Ended.

We knew it would be a 24K day, which is long enough. When we checked the map profile against our lodging reservation. YIKES. We are in for a 30K day. (18 miles)

This is when the mental game kicks in. We instantly readjusted our mindset and took off. We voiced our gratefulness for clouds, wind, even a light drizzle, dense forest trails that took heat out of the equation. We arrived to our lodging at 6 pm, which is late for us. But we did it!

Now comes shower, dinner, crash.

Tomorrow, Friday, is the last day of new territory for us. We arrive in Burgos, and from there on, we’ve walked the path before.

That also means we will have walked a total of approximately 300K by end of day manana.

 

 

 

Let’s Try Video

The terrain and scenery can vary dramatically in one day.

Early morning shadows as we are bordered by vines. Click the video link below.

Buenos Dias in the Vineyards

The last 5K of the same day. Click video links below.

Buenas Tardes (Part 1)

Buenas Tardes (Part 2)

And, for fans of the “Room with a View” Series, here’s that night’s lodging.

Our room in the Parador of Santo Domingo. We learned there are two in this city. How? Donna’s suitcase was delivered to the other one in town.

We reminded ourselves that patience is a virtue and waited for her suitcase to be retrieved and delivered. We sat in the shade, in a cafe on the Calle Mayor (Main Street), comforted by cold sangria.

The view from the room’s window? Good reason to search elsewhere for the sangria.

Later, waiting for the “early” dinner seating at 8:30 p.m. at the other Parador in town, we were treated to people watching on the square.

We didn’t get to bed until 11 p.m., so not as much sleep as we would normally like, but when in Spain . . . You’re going to eat late.

Here’s our selfie the next morning, in front of the hotel’s tribute to Peregrinos. (That’s us. Pilgrims walking the Camino.)

And then, the highlight of the morning was seeing two new favorite young people. Meet Ponytail and Provence. (She’s Ponytail. He’s Provence. More on them later.)